Mark Twain once said that “clothes make the man.” For the Madrigal men at Haddonfield Memorial High School, those clothes include velvet, brocade and satin over tights. And sometimes capes and floppy hats.
“And we wear them proudly,” said Madrigal Joey Leone.
For the HMHS Madrigal singers — 12 girls and 13 guys — the costumes are all part of the pomp and pageantry of the Renaissance songs and dances they perform.
“Their whole demeanor changes the minute they put the costumes,”said Paula Meyer, director of the Madrigals. “It helps them have a clearer mental image of the context of the music they are singing. They love dressing up and acting royal.”
But where does one go to buy authentic and affordable 16th century clothing these days?
“You don’t,” Meyer said. “You have to have them made.”
When Meyer started the Madrigal Singers in 1997, she had the daunting task of outfitting 17 singers in period costumes. Then principal Joseph Serico gave the group enough money to have clothing made by Haddonfield resident Pat Martino, who now creates costumes for characters at Disney World.
As the group grew to 24, and sometimes 25, singers, Madrigal parent volunteer seamstresses created more costumes. The majority of those costumes — mostly made by Carol McLaughlin and Pat Scott — are still in use.
“But the original costumes aren’t looking very good anymore,” Meyer said. “In fact, some are practically disintegrating.”
Enter Ruth Leone, long-time Madrigal mom and seamstress extraordinaire.
Her oldest, Anne, was the first Madrigal in the family. Middle child, Maggie, followed a few years later, becoming queen in her senior year. And son, Joey, now in his final year at HMHS, reigns as this year’s king.
Three years ago, Leone decided it was time the Madrigals had some new costumes. The major impetus, she explains, was a going-out-of-business sale at a fabric house in Center City, Philadelphia.
“I loaded up on brocades and velvets for a fraction of the price,” she said. She then proceeded to create a matching male/female set of costumes in rich beiges and browns. “It was so gratifying, that I’ve made two more sets since, and have one more set on the drawing board.”
But making authentic period costumes isn’t as easy as picking up a pattern. Leone did her homework on Renaissance clothing. She researched 16th century costumes and fabrics, and met with the seamstress for the Philadelphia Shakespeare Theatre for some pointers.
“For example, most of my costumes make minimal use of prints because they just weren’t that common in the 16th century,” explains Leone, adding, “Stripes were an exception.” The wealthy, like those portrayed in the Madrigals court, used costly embroidered fabrics, which Leone has worked into the costumes as accents and trims.
“I discovered that dyes have their own history too,” she says. “This year’s costumes feature black velvet because black was actually the most costly of dyes, and to wear it was indicative of wealth.” For example, she says, in court paintings of Queen Elizabeth I she is usually wearing a black article of clothing.
Although Leone never keeps track of how much time it takes to create a 16th century fashion masterpiece, she estimates each costume takes about eight days to complete. Oddly enough, she says that designing a costume for a Madri-guy is more fun than creating one for a Madri-girl.
“Maybe it’s the challenge of designing something masculine enough to please a high school-aged boy — who already has to live down wearing tights — yet is still luxurious and courtly looking,” she says.
Meyer said they all love donning the dandy duds… mostly.
“I still see some guys who are resistant to putting on tights at first, but I think they actually like being cajoled into wearing them,” said Meyer, adding, “In the last few years, I’ve been hearing the upperclassmen insisting that they have earned the right to wear pants — actually pantaloons — under their tunics, and they argue over who gets them!”
The costumes are just part of the whole package, says Leone. “From the moment you first see the singers in their beautiful costumes to the time they open their mouths and sing those intricate madrigal songs, it’s an entirely magical experience.”
The magic can be experienced first-hand at the annual Madrigal Dessert Theatre performances on Friday, Dec. 9 at 7 p.m. and Saturday, Dec. 10, at 2 p.m. and 7 p.m. at the Grace Episcopal Church on Kings Highway. Renaissance songs, carols of the holiday season, and a musical comedy play will be featured at the shows. A luxurious coffee and dessert buffet will be served during intermission.
For more information or tickets, call Patty at 856–354–6338. All tickets cost $10.
